There is always the unpleasant reality that Indians love to use the beach as a latrine so a walk along the beach becomes an obstacle course, you think twice before entering the water and breaks from rivermouths tend to be very polluted. The established tourist destinations have clean beaches as the tourist industry keeps them that way.

Though none of the breaks could even remotely be described as world class, they are interesting enough to visit if you are on your way through to Sri Lanka, Mauritius or wherever. An audience is guaranteed.

There is reportedly good surf on the Andaman and Nicobar islands (just off the coast west of Thailand) however you need a permit to visit and access is granted to only one or two of the islands. Maybe worth a shot if you have the time and patience to wade through the legendary Indian bureaucracy. Ask Muthu in Kovalam for information.

South Goa, India

When to go: Just after the monsoon season finishes, September, October time.

Where to go: Colva, South Goa though the whole of the coast is quite clean by Indian standards so exploring is a must!

Colva has a shallow beach profile making waves easy to catch early and not particularly sucky. All along the beach there are various sandbars. We have seen it at 2' (we were there in November). Don't know if it holds more size than this. Outside Colva itself there is a small rivermouth that may build up some sand. Just check along the long white sandy beach for waves. There is accomodation all along the coast. A double room costs anywhere between Rs150 to 300 per night.

Getting There: There are flights from the UK to Goa now (though we came overland from Mumbai (Bombay). At Vasca da Gama get a taxi to Colva (about Rs350 to Rs450) haggle like crazy.

Crowds: You get the whole lot to yourself. The biggest crowd may be the one watching you but all in all they tend to leave tourists alone unless it looks as though you have a wallet.

Kerala, India

When to go: Anytime really, after the monsoon is good (November/December) as it is cooler.

Where to go: Kovalam.

Kovalam has 2 beaches separated by a short headland. The break has a sucky powerful wave that often closes out and is a real board snapper. Depending on swell direction, the waves may peel around the headland or the lighthouse giving a short but exciting ride. The only real waverider who seems to be able to ride this is Muthu. Boards are available for hire from him for Rs 100 per hour (he also hires out boogie boards for Rs50 per hour). They may be a bit tatty but they have seen some action. If you are an itinerant surfer then dropping off some wax for him would be well received.

Muthu, the only local in India

Getting there: The nearest airport is at Trivandrum which is a short (20 minute) taxi ride away. A taxi is about Rs350 to Rs 450. Flights around India with Indian Airlines are ridiculously cheap so it may be worth stopping here for a few days on your way to Sri Lanka.

Crowds: Some inexperienced bodyboarders and bodysurfers. It is an excellent bodysurfing (bodypitching?) wave!

Tamil Nadu, India

When to go: Best go after the monsoon, November/December. There are some cyclones that really batter this coastline but during that period it is way too big to go out.

Where to go: Mahaballipuram

Mahaballipuram is about 2 hour bus ride from Chennai (used to be called Madras). The bus costs about Rs15. Pretty much all of the coastline south of Madras consists of a flat sandy beach producing a gentle longboarding wave that is best towards low tide. Find a wave and give it a go. You are sure to find attract a crowd. Around the temple is dirty so a 20 minute walk up or down the beach may provide some cleaner alternatives.

Pondicherry used to be a French colony in India. Alcohol is freely available and there are a number of expatriate french surfers there. Best to ask around.

Orissa, India

Gopalpur is a place that attracts very few western tourists. There are many hotels though, for indian guests. Get off the train at Berhampur and get a rickshaw Rs100 ? Rs 150. Strap your boards to the roof. Gopalpur is a beach break which is best on low tide. It becomes a dumping shore break at high tide.

Just north of the town there is a rivermouth which may give some reasonable sandbars. Again, a longboarding sort of wave. Be wary of the turds and if all else fails watch the fishermen surfing their boats into shore!